From controversial fake animal heads to Daniel Roseberry’s spectacular fashion meditation on Dante’s Inferno, we welcome you to Haute Couture week which, with just a few shows, promises to be one of the most memorable Spring-Summer 2023. Schiaparelli opened greeting us with moments of glamor, selfies that will go down in history and great celebrities… Without a doubt, it is a parade that is worth seeing and that we will return to as a reference in a few years.
The parade took place in the Petit Palais in Paris, but it was set as if it were a morning at the theater. Kylie Jenner arrived with a huge lion’s head attached to her dress. Doja Cat appeared decked out in a stunning red, Swarovski crystal-embroidered jumpsuit.
Inspired by Dante Alighieri’s Inferno
Roseberry cited Dante’s Inferno as the inspiration behind the collection, likening his protagonist’s uncertain journey to Hell as a reference to the uncertainty that befalls him, as a designer, when faced with his creative process. With the lion, the leopard and the wolf, he represented the animals that Dante associates with lust, pride and greed.
Elsa Schiaparelli loved leopard fur and leopard print, including repeatedly into her collections. Not just leopard but animals in general. Decades later, Daniel showed a snow leopard dress for the Schiaparelli spring haute couture 2023 collection.
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With an elegant base palette of black and white hues, the collection was punctuated with accents of gold, bronze, emerald green, beige and copper, fusing striking evening gowns with sculptural gold heads and bronze molded body accessories. Exaggerated, oversized silhouettes dominated the runway, though they seemed more subtle as a result of pared-down colorways.
I admit I fell in love with Schiaparelli long ago, but you have to admit this is beautiful. There’s not a cloth in this collection that I wouldn’t wear and feel like the muse of the decade. I believe it is genius.
